grilled chicken burgers with brie and rosemary rhubarb

Throughout most of high school, college, graduate school and the years in-between, I worked in a restaurant that serves gourmet burgers. I spent days roasting peppers, months breading onion rings, years frying bacon and a lifetime flipping burgers, to use the ubiquitous phrase. I loved every moment of it. When I would work the morning shift it would be just me, a co-worker or two, the Stones blaring on the stereo and a kitchen full of prep cooking to be done. It was hard work but it was also a peaceful: nothing mattered but the pressing of the lemons, the trimming of the chicken and the whisking of the batter.

For some people, running or yoga gives them clarity. My clearest thinking, on the other hand, happens at the grill. It’s the only culinary endeavor in which I don’t have to think about what I’m doing: the years I spent turning chicken and salting patties have made it second nature. As I result, while I’m grilling I think of…nothing. My mind goes blank. My hands do all the work and my head goes zen. I know, I know—I’m weird.

I can make the perfect burger with my eyes closed, but I also like to mix it up and experiment with ingredients and flavors. I could write a novel about cooking beef patties, and I’m sure I will before the grilling season is out. But today let’s talk about chicken.

Grilled chicken breasts can go one of two ways: they can be the most amazing piece of poultry you’ve ever eaten in your life, or they can be dry as paper and hard as a rock. To prevent this catastrophe and maintain moisture, I like to take a few precautions:

  1. Pound your chicken breasts thin or slice in half (as I did with the ones pictured above). This will reduce the total cooking time needed and lessen the chance that you’ll overcook while trying to get rid of that pesky pink middle.
  2. Marinate. Use your favorite recipe, or simply toss ‘em in a Ziploc with a little vinaigrette. Any mixture containing an acid (citrus, vinegar, etc.) will work to tenderize the meat. An overnight marinade with generally produce the most tender, flavorful chicken, but if you’ve run out of time, just rinse your chicken breasts, pat dry, and let them sit refrigerated in the marinade for as long as you can (even 30 minutes will help).
  3. Prep the grill. Turn the heat to medium-high, close the lid, and let it warm up for 10 minutes. Then give it a good scrub with your grill brush, wipe down (carefully and quickly) with a damp towel you don’t mind ruining, and brush with oil or spray with cooking spray (VERY carefully: oil usually creates flames). Turn down heat to medium and give it a few minutes to cool before laying on the chicken.
  4. Lay the chicken breasts on the grill and don’t close the lid. Closing the lid will add indirect heat that can dry out the chicken.
  5. Flip not by timing but by appearance. Once all of the edges are evenly white and the pink is beginning to disappear from the tops, it’s time to flip (in the photo above, the breast pieces are ready to be turned).
  6. Check by actually cutting into the chicken. Thermometers are not always reliable. Cut into the thickest part of the breast to make sure all of the pink has turned white. The moment that happens, pull that sucker off the grill.

Whew. Turns out I needed to write a novel on grilling chicken as well.

Stepping off my soapbox now. Let’s move onto the good stuff.

For my first chicken burgers of the season, I decided to go with some fresh summer flavors. Remember that decadent rhubarb shortcake I made the other day? It was the inspiration for this dish. I used the same basic recipe for the rhubarb compote, but this time adding a little rosemary to give it more balance of flavor for this savory dish.

Once you’ve grilled your marinated chicken breasts (or breast halves, if you’ve cut them for grilling), top with a few slices of brie while they’re still on the grill. If you’ve cooking halved breasts, you can overlap them so that they fit nicely on the bun.

While you’re at it, toast your buns on the grill. One minute per side should be plenty.

Once the brie is slightly melted (not too melted—brie can get really runny), pull those babies off and dress your buns. Spread on a little mayo (an herbed aioli would work nicely, too), some lettuce or spinach, and a dollop of the rhubarb compote on top.

I always love the pairing of brie with sweet spreads, and I loved it even more on this burger. It was unexpected and yet the flavors blended together really well. Sweet and savory combos always win me over.

They also make me perform interpretive dances. But I won’t show you those.

Fresh, easy, summery meal, pretty enough to serve for company.

My zen is gone and the long weekend is over. But grilling season is upon us, and I can’t wait to stand over the propane flames, the smell of summer seeping into my apron, and think of…nothing.

-RDG

Grilled Chicken Burgers with Brie and Rosemary Rhubarb

  • 4 marinated chicken breasts, halved or pounded thin (see suggestions above)
  • 8 slices brie cheese
  • Rhubarb compote with rosemary (see recipe below)
  • 4 potato rolls or your favorite hamburger buns
  • Aioli or mayo, for dressing buns
  • Lettuce or spinach, for dressing buns

Place chicken breasts on clean, greased pre-heated gas grill on set to medium-high. Flip once edges of breasts turn white and continue grilling until no longer pink in the center. Top each breast (if halved, overlap the two halves) with two slices brie and let melt slightly. Toast buns if desired.

Spread buns with aioli or mayo and top with lettuce. Place each chicken breast on top of lettuce and finish with a dollop of the rhubarb compote. Serves 4.

Rosemary Rhubarb Compote

  • 4 stalks rhubarb, trimmed of leaves and chopped into 1/4? pieces
  • 1/2 plus 1/8 cups water, divided
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1/2 packet gelatin
  • 1 teaspoon fresh minced rosemary

Bring 1/2 cup water to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Add the rhubarb, stir and simmer for 10-12 minutes or until rhubarb has softened and mixture has thickened. Remove from heat. Pour the remaining 1/8 cup water into a shallow dish and sprinkle in gelatin. Let sit for 5 minutes. Once rhubarb mixture has cooled slightly, stir in activated gelatin and rosemary. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate overnight or until set.

rhubarb shortcakes with lemon ricotta cream

I’ve been out of town, eating most of my meals in restaurants, and constantly on-the-go in preparation for a dear friend’s wedding yesterday. I feel as though I have lost touch with my husband, my daughter, my kitchen, and my sanity.

I’ve also been completely oblivious as to what season we’re heading toward and what lovely new produce is gracing the markets. So when I saw these gorgeous fresh red rhubarb stalks, it dawned on me that we are entering the most exciting season of produce there is: summer.

If you’ve never had the pleasure of working with rhubarb, it’s something that you should try at least once. It’s naturally very bitter, so you wouldn’t want to eat it plain or even unsweetened. But when stewed with a little sugar and vanilla, it makes me want to simultaneously dance an interpretive rhubarb jig and weep out of pure culinary bliss.

But what could I do with this rosy-pink compote that would compliment its flavors without being overpowering? A pie with strawberries and buttery crust is certainly delicious, but to me, rhubarb always feels like second fiddle in that situation. And nobody puts rhubarb in a corner.

Plus, the corners of my kitchen are probably really gross, so you wouldn’t want anything edible over there anyway.

Summer’s favorite dessert is strawberry shortcake, so why not nix the berries, pump up the volume on the whipped cream, and top it all off with a dollop of dreamy rhubarb compote?

That would certainly do. For the whipped cream, I began by whipping some regular heavy whipping cream and then added some texture and body with ricotta cheese. Lemon curd (which you can find next to the jam in your local store, or at a great price here) lent a tart, rich bite.

The result? I’m not usually one to toot my own horn, but…

TOOTY FLIPPIN TOOT.

These were to die for. The compote was fresh and light, the cream silky and rich. The two flavors blended together in my mouth with wisps of cake and I was lost forever in a dessert dreamworld.

For the cake, I simply used store-bought angel food. I thought it had a nice fluffy texture and didn’t overpower any of the other flavors. If you’re not an angel food fan, you could also use slices of pound cake, homemade scones (county fair-style), biscuits, or sponge cake.

I will be trying this with all of those varieties of cakes this summer. I have my go-to dessert for the warm months ahead. Plus, the rhubarb compote is so versatile: I’ve already used the leftovers in another recipe, spread it on my toast, dolloped it on my yogurt, and poured it over vanilla ice cream. There can never be too much rhubarb in my world.

It felt so good to be back in the kitchen that I don’t know if I will ever leave it. I’m still in a bit of a fog from my girl’s getaway, but my daydreams consist of honeydew gazpacho and seared ahi with pears. It’s a nice fog to live in as I chop, stir, and photograph some lovely new recipes for the weeks ahead.

Happy monday, all!

-RDG

Rhubarb Shortcakes with Lemon Ricotta Cream

  • 8 stalks rhubarb, trimmed of leaves and chopped into 1/4″ pieces
  • 1 1/4 cups water, divided
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1 packet gelatin
  • 10 oz. ricotta cheese
  • 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 1/3 cup lemon curd
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract, divided
  • 8-10 slices shortcake (angel food, sponge cake, biscuits or scones would all work well)

Make the rhubarb compote ahead of time: bring 1 cup of the water to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Add the rhubarb, stir and simmer for 10-15 minutes or until rhubarb has softened and mixture has thickened. Remove from heat. Pour the remaining 1/4 cup water into a shallow dish and sprinkle in gelatin packet. Let sit for 5 minutes. Once rhubarb mixture has cooled slightly, stir in activated gelatin and 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate overnight.

To make the cream: Beat the heavy whipping cream on medium-high until stiff peaks form. Fold in the ricotta cheese, lemon curd, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract.

To assemble the shortcakes: Top each slice of cake with a hefty dollop of the cream and a few tablespoons of the rhubarb compote. Garnish with fresh mint sprigs if you want to make it all purdy.